Understanding your hair type (wavy, curly, coily, kinky) is key to choosing the right hair care products. The hair typing system (2A to 4C) offers a basic framework, but every head of hair is unique.
Knowing your textured hair type helps tailor your hair care routine and prevents common mistakes, like using products that are too heavy or inappropriate. It enhances curl definition, eases detangling, and reduces breakage.
Different hair textures
The Andre Walker Hair Typing System is the most widely used classification for textured hair. It ranges from Type 1 (straight) to Type 4 (kinky/coily), with subcategories (A, B, C) based on the tightness of the curl.
Type 2 – Wavy Hair
- 2A: Loose, barely-there waves, fine texture
- 2B: More defined S-waves, frizz-prone
- 2C: Thick waves with a coarser feel, more volume
Type 3 – Curly Hair
- 3A: Big, loose curls with shine
- 3B: Tighter, springy ringlets with body
- 3C: Dense corkscrew curls with more shrinkage and volume
Type 4 – Coily/Kinky Hair
- 4A: Well-defined coils, soft and springy
- 4B: Z-shaped pattern with less definition, fluffy texture
- 4C: Tightest curl, less defined, prone to shrinkage and dryness
Your hair type isn’t just a number
Most people have more than one curl pattern on their head. For example, someone might have 3C curls at the crown and 4A coils near the nape. This is totally normal! The key is identifying your dominant pattern and adjusting your care routine accordingly.
In addition to curl pattern, several other characteristics influence your hair routine:
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- Hair Porosity: your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture
- Hair Density: how many hair strands grow per cm² of scalp
- Strand Thickness: fine, medium, or coarse strands
- Elasticity: how far your hair can stretch before breaking
- Scalp Condition: oily, dry, sensitive, or balanced
These elements help you go beyond curl pattern and truly personalize your care plan. For example, two people with Type 4A hair might need completely different products depending on porosity and density.
How to identify your hair type
- Wash and condition your hair using a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo
- Let your hair air dry without brushing or adding styling products
- Observe the shape your hair naturally takes:
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- Does it fall flat or gently wave? (Type 2)
- Does it curl into spirals or loops? (Type 3)
- Does it form tight coils or zig-zags? (Type 4)
Your hair is unique AND that’s your POWER
There’s no “better” curl pattern, just different ones with different needs. Wavy hair may struggle to hold definition. Coily hair may crave moisture. Curly hair may tangle easily. And that’s OK.
The beauty of textured hair lies in its versatility and individuality. It can be worn naturally, twisted, braided, defined, or stretched and each look tells a story. Instead of trying to force your hair into a mold, learn how it thrives best and build around that.
Challenges of textured hair
Textured hair is beautiful but often misunderstood. It tends to be drier than straight hair because natural oils from the scalp have a harder time traveling down coiled strands. That’s why hydration and moisture retention are critical.
Knowing your type helps:
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- Prevent product overload (e.g., heavy butters on low-porosity 2B hair)
- Define your curls more easily
- Reduce breakage and split ends
- Build a realistic, effective routine tailored to your needs
Common myths
Let’s bust a few myths:
Myth: Curly hair doesn’t grow
- Truth: It grows at the same rate as straight hair, but shrinkage and breakage can make it seem like it doesn’t
Myth: You need a ton of products
- Truth: Less is often more. The right 3–4 products tailored to your type are more effective than a shelf full of random ones
Myth: One curl type = one routine
- Truth: Your routine also depends on your porosity, density, and lifestyle
Product selection by hair type
Here’s a basic guide to choosing products by type:
Wavy Hair (2A–2C)
Needs light hydration. Avoid heavy oils and butters. Look for lightweight gels or mousses.
Curly Hair (3A–3C)
Thrives on moisture. Use leave-ins, curl creams, and moderate hold gels to define curls.
Coily/Kinky Hair (4A–4C)
Needs intense moisture and protection. Deep condition regularly. Layer products using the LOC or LCO method (Liquid, Oil, Cream).
Building a care routine
Once you understand your type, you can build a simplified routine around it:
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- Cleanse: Weekly or biweekly, depending on your lifestyle
- Condition: Use a hydrating or strengthening conditioner
- Moisturize: Apply water-based products followed by oils or creams
- Style: Choose styling products based on the level of hold you want
- Protect: Sleep with a satin scarf or bonnet to prevent breakage
Listening to your hair
No guide replaces your own experience. Hair is dynamic and responds to internal factors (diet, stress, hormones) as well as external ones (weather, environment, products). Observe your hair often how it looks, feels, and reacts and adjust accordingly.
Consistency is key. Your curls won’t flourish overnight, but with time and the right care, you’ll see the transformation.